You are much to have at least one or two pairs of brogues, suitable for wearing the costume. And the question I often get about it is: “Can I wear these oxfords with chinos or jeans?”
Before answering the question, I invite you (if not already done) to read this article written by Jordan where he explains in particular six criteria which play on the degree of the formalism of a shoe (color, material, assembly, seams, sole, and perforations).
We could also add the shape: the more a shoe is tapered, “pointed”, the more it belongs to the formal register. Conversely, the more a shoe is round, the more it is relaxed.
The angle of view is not quite the same, but we see that the pair on the left ( Santoni ) has a more elongated shape than the pair on the right, more round ( Velasca ).
As such, Jordan also graciously sent me a graphic he had produced but not used, classifying the degree of the formalism of the brogues and derbies according to their color:
We see in particular that:
- The darker the shoe, the more formal it is.
- With the same color, leather, toe, and perforations, a brogue will always be more formal than a derby +
Richelieu With Jeans Or Chinos, It’s No
Jean + Richelieux or chino + Richelieux is an association that I often see on the street, and which does not look good the vast majority of the time, unfortunately.
Jeans are original workwear casual pants. Chinos are also casual pants of military origin. The level of formalism with a brogue, a very formal shoe, is too far apart in both cases.
Jean and chino do not go well with brogues and we do not recommend this association.
One Cut + Casual Pants: Answer To Leo’s Question
“Can we wear a one cut with jeans? Chinos? Flannel pants?”
As a reminder, the one cut oxford is the most formal shoe there is. It has only one piece of leather and there is, therefore, no seam on its upper.
It is even more formal than the hard-toed brogue or the perforated brogue.
The presence of seams on the Carmina makes it a less formal model.
Given what was stated in the previous part, we understand that the one cut has no place with jeans or chinos, whatever the color of the shoe, and whatever the model of the jeans or chino.
The very nature of the one cut makes it too formal to wear with pants even a casual coat.
And with flannel pants? I would say “why not”, as long as the pants are very sober: a plain and dark flannel, a straight cut, a clean fall on the shoe, without cuffs.
“Is There Really No Way Out?” »: How To Wear Oxfords Well With Jeans Or Chinos
We can get away with bringing the style of the shoes closer to the pants and therefore choosing a more casual brogue.
Here is an example :
Here is a look with raw jeans:
I am not too fan of this association, but I find that it remains nevertheless acceptable: the colors respond well and the slight countryside brought by the perforations is consistent with the raw appearance of the jeans.
Here is another example:
Suede leather really helps to relax the shoe. Its characteristic aspect distracts our eye, making it almost forget that we are dealing here with brogues.
The right combination of colors and the right fall of the jeans help create consistency.
In the two outfits above, chinos could also have their place. But not just any: chino that is not too tight, of solid color, and absolutely the right length.
Here is an example with these 100% cotton Scavini pants with a clip at the front and an offset buttoning at the belt. These pants are a bit like the classic woolen dress pants:
To Remember
- The more formal your brogue is (if it is in smooth black leather if it is a one-cut, etc.) the more difficult it is to wear it with casual pants like jeans or chinos.
- With a brogue, the cut and the length of your stocking are essential. Trousers in a completely faded color, with a hole in the knee or too long, have no place with dress shoes.
- The best solution to wear oxfords with casual pants is to move towards a casual model (lighter color, suede leather, perforations, slightly rounded shape, not too sharp).
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