
Rough Out Suede – 7 New References
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Let’s finish discovering what’s new this winter with the arrival of a brand new leather at J&D.
No new forms or new sponsorships today.
These are 7 models that you have already seen:
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You will tell me that, in a winter spirit, we could have offered these models in Goodyear or Norwegian.
But, for several reasons, we decided to keep this arrangement:
Quite simply because if the leather of the upper (ie upper and lining of the shoe) does not hold water it is not of much use, right?
I’m talking about the rough-out suede we used on these models right after, but this photo should make your mouth water:
Charles F Stead & CO Ltd: a century-old English tannery specializing in suede leathers
Technical sheet
MANUFACTURING
As with all our shoes, these are made in France, in Cholet , by a renowned and recognized workshop.
SOLES
For these models, we use a rubber sole from Vibram.
INVISIBLE COMPONENTS
You do not see them and yet they have a great importance in the life of your shoes.
So much so that I devoted an article to them: the invisible parts of our shoes .
If you want to have fun dismantling, this model is what you will come across:
– a wooden shank
– a cork plate filling
– synthetic toe and buttress
– a first assembly in vegetable tanned collar leather (from the Masure tannery)
Technical sheet
MANUFACTURING
As with all our shoes, these are made in France, in Cholet, by a renowned and recognized workshop.
SOLES
For these models we use rubber soles:
- Blake Rapid stitched chukka
- Blake Rapid stitched Brogue V2 derby
- Norwegian-stitched long-wing
- Norwegian Sewn Hunting Derby
- City Boots V2 sewn, Goodyear
- Norwegian sewn work boots
- Norwegian stitched mountain boots
Presentation Of Assemblies: Goodyear, Norwegian, And Blake Rapid Sewn.

Sewn Goodyear And Norwegian
These assemblies are very appreciated by shoe lovers for their robustness and technicality. They both rely on the realization of two seams:- A side which will link the rod, the mounting wall of the first and the welt (Goodyear or Norwegian sewing)
- A vertical which will link the outsole to the welt (stitch stitching)
- the side seam is a “chain” type seam
- the stitch stitching is two threads and of the “shuttle stitch” type (the stitches are independent: if one of them jumps the others are not weakened).
The Blake Rapid Sewn:

- The technique: Our shape 63 is too pinched in camber and it does not pass on the machine used by the workshop to make the Goodyear seam. So, to offer this type of shape, we have to sew it in Blake.
- Comfort: A Blake sewn is much more flexible. The comfort of the shoes will be much faster.
- The price: Our desire is to offer quality shoes in a price range that suits the greatest number. The cost of making a Goodyear has absolutely nothing to do with Blake. It is therefore for us a means of containing the price and of proposing several ranges adapted to the desires, uses, and budget of each.
What is a Blake Rapid?
Compared to the classic Blake, we add a midsole (ie: wedged between the first insole and the outsole. The Blake seam will come to link the upper, the first sock and this midsole together. We add a small stitching visible all around the shoe that links together the outsoles and the midsole. “So, if I take a pair of Brogue V2 Derby or Chukka in Blake I buy disposable shoes?”Far from it .
This bad reputation of Blake comes from the fact that certain brands have understood that sewing their soles makes it possible to return a quality image. An obvious argument for selling their more expensive shoes. And, in your opinion, what did they choose as a montage? Bingo: the Blake sewn which is (more) simple to make quickly. The consequence is a tidal wave of Blake sewn:- awful,
- done anyhow
- which do not last.
- with two pitched threads (for water tightness and solidity when most brands are satisfied with a single unpicked thread);
- in shuttle points therefore independent and not with a simple chain stitch as on the mid-range models. This provides greater strength and durability during assembly.
Why Theoretically?

- In our eternal search for quality leathers, it was only natural that we turned to the English tannery Stead.
- Based in Leeds, for over a hundred years (founded in 1904), it is especially renowned for its suede leathers!
- It specializes in offering original/unique leathers by playing with the natural imperfections of the skins used.
- Just take a look at the different references on their site to realize it.
Brogue V2 Derby and Blake Rapid stitched Chukka

- Golf type vibram for the long wing (which has been mounted in Norwegian to match the character of this leather)
- Notched Vibram for Mountain Boots
- The notched Dolphin for the Work boots
- Blake Rapid stitched chukka
- Blake Rapid stitched Brogue V2 derby
- Norwegian-stitched long wing
- Norwegian Sewn Hunting Derby
- City Boots V2 sewn Goodyear
- Norwegian sewn work boots
- Norwegian stitched mountain boots
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