Rough Out Suede – 7 New References

Let’s finish discovering what’s new this winter with the arrival of a brand new leather at J&D. No new forms or new sponsorships today. These are 7 models that you have already seen:

• Blake Rapid stitched chukka
• Blake Rapid stitched Brogue V2 derby
• Norwegian-stitched long-wing
• Norwegian Sewn Hunting Derby
• City Boots V2 sewn, Goodyear
• Norwegian sewn work boots
• Norwegian stitched mountain boots

But they are all made with a brand new leather (for us): a rough out suede from the Stead tannery. I tell you about this famous English house further. But, let’s start with a reminder on the different assemblies used on these models.

Presentation Of Assemblies: Goodyear, Norwegian, And Blake Rapid Sewn.

Sewn Goodyear And Norwegian

These assemblies are very appreciated by shoe lovers for their robustness and technicality. They both rely on the realization of two seams:

• A side which will link the rod, the mounting wall of the first and the welt (Goodyear or Norwegian sewing)
• A vertical which will link the outsole to the welt (stitch stitching)

To be precise:

• the side seam is a “chain” type seam
• the stitch stitching is two threads and of the “shuttle stitch” type (the stitches are independent: if one of them jumps the others are not weakened).

The difference is that the side seam is visible on a Norwegian sewn while it is invisible on a Goodyear. The consequence? A Norwegian is more waterproof than a Goodyear. But more massive also visually. In addition, all our Goodyear and Norwegian sewn models benefit from a mounting wall engraved directly in the first mounting (double leather lip). Why are these montages acclaimed by amateurs? because the presence of two seams ensures greater solidity and better sealing of the shoe (compared to a Blake) because they can be reseeded as many times as you want

The Blake Rapid Sewn:

+ You will tell me that, in a winter spirit, we could have offered these models in Goodyear or Norwegian. But, for several reasons, we decided to keep this arrangement:

• The technique: Our shape 63 is too pinched in camber and it does not pass on the machine used by the workshop to make the Goodyear seam. So, to offer this type of shape, we have to sew it in Blake.
• Comfort: A Blake sewn is much more flexible. The comfort of the shoes will be much faster.
• The price: Our desire is to offer quality shoes in a price range that suits the greatest number. The cost of making a Goodyear has absolutely nothing to do with Blake. It is therefore for us a means of containing the price and of proposing several ranges adapted to the desires, uses, and budget of each.

What is a Blake Rapid?

Compared to the classic Blake, we add a midsole (ie: wedged between the first insole and the outsole. The Blake seam will come to link the upper, the first sock and this midsole together. We add a small stitching visible all around the shoe that links together the outsoles and the midsole. “So, if I take a pair of Brogue V2 Derby or Chukka in Blake I buy disposable shoes?”

Far from it .

This bad reputation of Blake comes from the fact that certain brands have understood that sewing their soles makes it possible to return a quality image. An obvious argument for selling their more expensive shoes. And, in your opinion, what did they choose as a montage? Bingo: the Blake sewn which is (more) simple to make quickly. The consequence is a tidal wave of Blake sewn:

• awful,
• done anyhow
• which do not last.

At Jacques & Déméter, we don’t see it that way. This is why we make the Blake sewn:

• with two pitched threads (for water tightness and solidity when most brands are satisfied with a single unpicked thread);
• in shuttle points therefore independent and not with a simple chain stitch as on the mid-range models. This provides greater strength and durability during assembly.

Theoretically, with these solid assemblies, you get a shoe that will accompany you for (very) many years

Why Theoretically?

Quite simply because if the leather of the upper (ie upper and lining of the shoe) does not hold water it is not of much use, right? I’m talking about the rough-out suede we used on these models right after, but this photo should make your mouth water: Charles F Stead & CO Ltd: a century-old English tannery specializing in suede leathers

• In our eternal search for quality leathers, it was only natural that we turned to the English tannery Stead.
• Based in Leeds, for over a hundred years (founded in 1904), it is especially renowned for its suede leathers!
• It specializes in offering original/unique leathers by playing with the natural imperfections of the skins used.
• Just take a look at the different references on their site to realize it.

We contacted them a little before last summer in order to receive some samples to better judge the hand and the appearance of different references. The choice was very complicated. After discussions and reflections with the workshop we retained the leather they call Waxy Commander Note: I have kept a few other ideas under the elbow for future launches 🙂 We are here on the skins of English cattle, about 20 months old. Once the skins have been carefully selected, Stead’s know-how does the rest. They carry out tanning with Chrome, house (unfortunately, they keep precious details of this process so I can not tell you more about the different steps). However, during the tanning process, the various products used to cause the fibers of the skin to tighten very strongly. So much so that its surface can lose up to 25% of its value. The result is particularly dense and therefore very (very) resistant leather. But they don’t stop there. As its name suggests, a mixture (also kept secret) of waxes and other very rich and thick oils comes to nourish this leather in depth to make it fatty. Better yet, it is completely waterproof (and tested according to the international standards of this label ). The end result is a very resistant leather that offers an original texture / color combination that will age over time!

Brogue V2 Derby and Blake Rapid stitched Chukka

Technical sheet MANUFACTURING As with all our shoes, these are made in France, in Cholet , by a renowned and recognized workshop. SOLES For these models, we use a rubber sole from Vibram. INVISIBLE COMPONENTS You do not see them and yet they have a great importance in the life of your shoes. So much so that I devoted an article to them: the invisible parts of our shoes . If you want to have fun dismantling, this model is what you will come across: – a wooden shank – a cork plate filling – synthetic toe and buttress – a first assembly in vegetable tanned collar leather (from the Masure tannery) Technical sheet MANUFACTURING As with all our shoes, these are made in France, in Cholet, by a renowned and recognized workshop. SOLES For these models we use rubber soles:

• Golf type vibram for the long wing (which has been mounted in Norwegian to match the character of this leather)
• Notched Vibram for Mountain Boots
• The notched Dolphin for the Work boots

INVISIBLE COMPONENTS No surprise: we use the same elements as on all our models: – a wooden shank – a cork plate lining – synthetic toe and buttress – a first assembly in vegetable tanned collar leather (from the Masure tannery) – an engraved mounting wall (double leather lip) directly in the first and completely canvas Technical sheet MANUFACTURING As with all our shoes, these are made in France, in Cholet, by a renowned and recognized workshop. SOLES For this model we use a rubber sole from Vibram. INVISIBLE COMPONENTS No surprise: we use the same elements as on all our models: – a wooden shank – a cork plate lining – synthetic toe and buttress – a first assembly in vegetable tanned collar leather (from the Masure tannery) – an engraved mounting wall (double leather lip) directly in the first and completely canvas How to get these shoes? As you read these lines, these models are available on our e-shop:

• Blake Rapid stitched chukka
• Blake Rapid stitched Brogue V2 derby
• Norwegian-stitched long wing
• Norwegian Sewn Hunting Derby
• City Boots V2 sewn Goodyear
• Norwegian sewn work boots
• Norwegian stitched mountain boots