Author: merkmakadmin

Can We Wear Oxfords With Jeans Or Chinos

Written by merkmakadmin on March 2, 2020. Posted in Blog. No Comments on Can We Wear Oxfords With Jeans Or Chinos

You are much to have at least one or two pairs of brogues, suitable for wearing the costume. And the question I often get about it is: “Can I wear these oxfords with chinos or jeans?”

Before answering the question, I invite you (if not already done) to read this article written by Jordan where he explains in particular six criteria which play on the degree of the formalism of a shoe (color, material, assembly, seams, sole, and perforations).

We could also add the shape: the more a shoe is tapered, “pointed”, the more it belongs to the formal register. Conversely, the more a shoe is round, the more it is relaxed.

The angle of view is not quite the same, but we see that the pair on the left ( Santoni ) has a more elongated shape than the pair on the right, more round ( Velasca ).

As such, Jordan also graciously sent me a graphic he had produced but not used, classifying the degree of the formalism of the brogues and derbies according to their color:

We see in particular that:

The darker the shoe, the more formal it is.
With the same color, leather, toe, and perforations, a brogue will always be more formal than a derby +

Richelieu With Jeans Or Chinos, It’s No

Jean + Richelieux or chino + Richelieux is an association that I often see on the street, and which does not look good the vast majority of the time, unfortunately.

Jeans are original workwear casual pants. Chinos are also casual pants of military origin. The level of formalism with a brogue, a very formal shoe, is too far apart in both cases.

Jean and chino do not go well with brogues and we do not recommend this association.

One Cut + Casual Pants: Answer To Leo’s Question

“Can we wear a one cut with jeans? Chinos? Flannel pants?”

As a reminder, the one cut oxford is the most formal shoe there is. It has only one piece of leather and there is, therefore, no seam on its upper.

It is even more formal than the hard-toed brogue or the perforated brogue.

One Cut + Casual Pants: Answer To Leo's Question

The presence of seams on the Carmina makes it a less formal model.

Given what was stated in the previous part, we understand that the one cut has no place with jeans or chinos, whatever the color of the shoe, and whatever the model of the jeans or chino.

The very nature of the one cut makes it too formal to wear with pants even a casual coat.

And with flannel pants? I would say “why not”, as long as the pants are very sober: a plain and dark flannel, a straight cut, a clean fall on the shoe, without cuffs.

“Is There Really No Way Out?” »: How To Wear Oxfords Well With Jeans Or Chinos

We can get away with bringing the style of the shoes closer to the pants and therefore choosing a more casual brogue.

Here is an example :

"Is There Really No Way Out?" »: How To Wear Oxfords Well With Jeans Or Chinos

Here is a look with raw jeans:

I am not too fan of this association, but I find that it remains nevertheless acceptable: the colors respond well and the slight countryside brought by the perforations is consistent with the raw appearance of the jeans.

Here is another example:

Suede leather really helps to relax the shoe. Its characteristic aspect distracts our eye, making it almost forget that we are dealing here with brogues.

The right combination of colors and the right fall of the jeans help create consistency.

In the two outfits above, chinos could also have their place. But not just any: chino that is not too tight, of solid color, and absolutely the right length.

Here is an example with these 100% cotton Scavini pants with a clip at the front and an offset buttoning at the belt. These pants are a bit like the classic woolen dress pants:

To Remember

The more formal your brogue is (if it is in smooth black leather if it is a one-cut, etc.) the more difficult it is to wear it with casual pants like jeans or chinos.
With a brogue, the cut and the length of your stocking are essential. Trousers in a completely faded color, with a hole in the knee or too long, have no place with dress shoes.
The best solution to wear oxfords with casual pants is to move towards a casual model (lighter color, suede leather, perforations, slightly rounded shape, not too sharp).

Boots, Parka, T-Shirt, Jean: The (Increased) Locker Room For Our Readers

Written by merkmakadmin on March 2, 2020. Posted in Blog. No Comments on Boots, Parka, T-Shirt, Jean: The (Increased) Locker Room For Our Readers

Following my move to the other side of the Atlantic in Montreal for my studies, my wardrobe had to adapt slightly to local weather conditions (polar cold in winter and “tropical” heat in summer). And this, with a student budget.

I try my best not to fall into the boots and big parka combo + a bit bland, and to continue to assert my passion for men’s fashion regardless of the climate. In order to share with you my vision of this passion that we all have in common. Here are my ten favorite pieces, the ones that form the basis of my wardrobe.

White T-Shirt

The white t-shirt is, in my opinion, the most timeless basic of the male wardrobe [Editor’s note: his story was told here by Jordan ], it also makes up the majority of my outfits. I like its versatility and its vintage aspect which immediately gives its holder a James Dean style.

I wear a white T-shirt almost every day, whether to go to university with jeans and a pair of sneakers or in a slightly more chic look with high-waisted pleated pants and a pair of derbies.

I personally advise the models offered by Uniqlo and Gap, which run around 13 euros each and which I think are the best cut at the entry-level.

Raw APC Jeans

With my exponential passion for clothing, I am more and more interested in denim, the flagship piece of men’s wardrobe. When I speak of denim, I mean beautiful Japanese canvas, raw, and selvage.

I used to buy all my jeans from Levi’s, naively thinking that it was THE benchmark brand. What a mistake!

So I decided to go to the higher category and I asked Father Christmas to offer me a purist, with a straight cut to change my semi-slims.

I found my happiness at APC with the New Standard. Despite its cardboard fabric during the first ports, it quickly relaxed and became very comfortable. I usually wear these jeans with a casual shirt and sneakers, or with a white T-shirt and a nice pair of shoes.

Blundstone Boots

I am an unconditional fan of boots. Chelsea, chukka, or even jodhpur, I find that they enhance any outfit made up of basics. Unfortunately, I cannot afford to wear them when it snows for fear of ruining them.

While browsing through Montreal stores, I came across the Australian brand Blundstone [Editor’s note: Jordan selected them in this article ], the perfect alternative to keep your feet dry while remaining elegant. I bought them in September 2018, and I just fell in love with them.

Their design is simple, sleek and roots with this thick sole to combat slippery sidewalks. Wear it with jeans and a turtleneck to face snowstorms while remaining stylish.

HERMÈS Watch

I have always loved watches, but I hate everything bling and “did you see me”. I’m more on the side of discretion, that is to say, flat watches with a simple design with a beautiful leather strap.

My father gave me this magnificent Hermès as a gift on my 18th birthday. I haven’t left her since. I associate it with absolutely all my outfits, from the most formal to the most casual and it always has its small effect.

In addition to being very aesthetic, this object is dear to my heart for its emotional side.

Velvet Overshirt October Editions

During my stay in Paris this winter, I started looking for a nice overshirt in order to give character to my most casual outfits. I turned to the French brand Octobre Editions that I discovered on BonneGueule, which offers timeless and good quality basics.

This corduroy overshirt is great for winter: it is very warm, well cut and very versatile which is perfect for layering. I really like to wear it over a white T-shirt, with raw jeans and a pair of sneakers or shoes.

Cos Straight Coat

In my humble opinion, the straight coat is the elegant male piece par excellence. However, I was looking for one that was a bit out of the ordinary in order to stand out from the simple camel or gray overcoat that many men have.

I literally found my happiness at COS, a brand that I love for the simplicity of its pieces and its Japanese signature. This piece has the distinction of not having a collar, which makes me think of kimonos.

This piece is not so easy to wear, so I prefer to associate it with rather casual-chic looks: a cardigan, a white T-shirt, pleated pants and a pair of sleek sneakers.

Patagonia Jacket

When I arrived in Montreal, I bought a Canada Goose parka to fight the cold. It is not very original I grant you, but it is nevertheless effective. Unfortunately, I had it stolen from a nightclub a year later…

In order not to die of cold, I set my sights on a Patagonia jacket which combines as much style as comfort. I wear it all winter as well with a simple white T-shirt in the mildest weather as with a good turtleneck in the coldest weather. The bright yellow of this jacket gives character and warmth to my simplest outfits, which is not to displease me in winter.

Note from David: I am in favor of adding a stronger color to an outfit, especially if the other colors that compose it are soberer (blue, gray, white). As such, this yellow is interesting: differentiating but not too bright, garish.

UNIQLO Classic Socks

I really like to use a nice pair of socks to add style to my outfits, I find it really elegant and original.

I got mine from Uniqlo (around 9 euros for four pairs). I took them in all colors, from blue to fir green, through red and orange.

A beautiful pair of burgundy colored socks worn with jeans and white sneakers instantly brings an elegant and neat touch to my most sober outfits.

Be careful not to overload your outfit with colors, you will quickly look like a rainbow.

Monoprix Turtleneck Sweater

The turtleneck [which is the subject of an episode of Panache, note] is the part of my wardrobe that makes me wait impatiently for winter. I love the almost sartorial elegance that it brings to an outfit always with disconcerting ease. It is also the most pleasant sweater to wear in winter thanks to its enveloping collar which completely replaces a scarf.

This one comes from Monoprix, a brand that I know very little about. However, the speckled design of the sweater immediately caught my eye. Its versatility makes it as easy to combine with jeans as with pleated pants or chinos.

Costumes: Our Style Advice

Written by merkmakadmin on February 29, 2020. Posted in Blog. No Comments on Costumes: Our Style Advice

The Essential Things To Remember For A Formal Costumes

When you are a student or start your professional life, it is very likely that the dress code of the company in which you work requires a suit. Through this section, we will present the essential points that govern the wearing of formal attire. These tips will allow you to build your business locker serenely and efficiently . So you will save a small fortune because you will know which ones to take without any doubt during a visit to the store (Yes, we all bought costumes that we end up never wearing because we seriously wonder if it would pass in the office).

A. The Fabric/Pattern/Color of Costumes

The business suit is worn in navy blue or gray (light, medium, and anthracite), EXIT black unless you are James Bond or you work in the funeral business. The black costume is reserved for the tuxedo (therefore ceremonial register) or for funerals (we avoid satin cuffs on this shot). As for the patterns, we are spoiled for choice: plain, textured, striped, checkered (especially the Prince of Wales). Finally, in terms of material, we opt for a 110s or 120s wool (which is worn in any season) then for the winter the flannel will be very elegant and warm then for the summer opt for semi-lined suits or unlined.

DO: A two-piece navy blue suit with melted stripes, probably the most formal suit.

DON’T: We have seen this kind of composition bloom lately. The black suit is to be banished from business and the black-tie even more. Opt instead for an anthracite gray suit or a midnight blue suit if the dark tones appeal to you.

B. The Fit

The fit of the costume is common sense, it should not be too tight (Exit The Kooples) even if you are very thin it will be very uncomfortable to wear all day. Conversely, a suit that is too large will be awkward on the move and just as unsightly as a suit that is too tight. So if we were to summarize the thing succinctly, we must wear a fitted cut when we are thin and a straighter cut when we are stronger! Finally, it is necessary to pay attention to the proportions between the collar, the cuffs, and the tie to remain coherent.

DO : The suit fits well to the body without sticking to the skin.

DON’T: Sleeves too long and too wide, the jacket too is too wide and goes too low to the point that its jacket makes it smaller. As for his pants, it is too wide too. Donald Trump is the perfect counter-example from top to bottom.

C. Finishes

There are many that we should dwell on because brands often differ on these points which are customizable. That said, let’s focus on the most important finishes, which are the lapels and buttoning. The simple notch lapels (they form an angle) can be found on most classic formal costumes. The notch lapels are often reserved for double-breasted suits. The shawl collar is strictly reserved for ceremonies or festive occasions. The costumes are worn closed when we are standing and open seats.

On a 2-button suit, you close the top one and never the bottom one, on a double-breasted suit you close the middle one and not the others. To conclude, do not hesitate to ask questions about the construction of the costume. To know if it is a heat-sealed, semi-canvas or a complete canvas. The idea is that a thermobonded offers less beautiful cuffs and a costume that will wear out faster while a semi-backed fabric will be much more solid. As for the complete interlining, it is the Rolls Royce of mounting in costumes (in terms of comfort and durability).

DO: Beautiful notch lapels with generous width which enhances the professional credibility of the wearer.

DON’T: A double-breasted suit should never have a classic notch lapel, always a sharp notch.

You may have read the outline of the codes that govern business suit. That said, there is a whole slew of details that will allow you to make a real difference in terms of elegance and that will affirm your clothing credibility in the professional field.

Formal Shirt: Our Style Advice

Written by merkmakadmin on February 29, 2020. Posted in Blog. No Comments on Formal Shirt: Our Style Advice

The Essential Things To Remember For A Formal Shirt

At Jamais Vulgaire we have been scouring the world for several years now in search of brands and platforms that always bring something unique. So we decided to keep this page to list all the style advice on the formal shirt that we discovered as we went along and the experience that we have accumulated for you. So that you can find your way quickly to choose the ones that will suit you best.

A. The Fabric/Pattern/Color of Formal Shirt

On a formal shirt, we generally prefer cotton in Oxford, poplin, pin-point or twill. Flannel or linen are rather reserved for the casual register! However, there are several possibilities as to the possible pattern: plain, striped or wire by wire are the main choices available to you. Any other discreet motif is portable provided that it is well-blended in the color of the shirt. Vichy, checks, chevron or tartans are patterns intended more for a more relaxed register! To conclude, we will dwell on the colors that govern the wearing of the formal shirt, namely white, sky blue, very light gray as well as pink for the most daring of us!

DO: a white striped cotton shirt is a fine example of a formal shirt test-Clotilde-Ranno-shirt grand-measurement-man royal oxford-cutter

DON’T: a Vichy shirt can hardly move in a formal suit, except when the pattern is well melted. In this case, it is far too pronounced which makes the shirt too casual and therefore inconsistent on a formal suit unit and tie-shirt-resize.

A. The Fabric/Pattern/Color of Formal Shirt

B. The Fit

It is a determining criterion that can ruin the wearing of it or on the contrary contribute to its success. Let’s give some concrete examples, someone who is fine will prefer something more fitted rather than a too-large shirt that will make it disappear and, conversely, a person with an imposing physique will not wear a garment with a cut that is too tight at the risk. to feel very uncomfortably dressed! To find the right sleeve length there is a simple trick: in formal attire, the sleeve of the shirt is about 1 cm longer than the costume.

DO: A fit well adjusted to its morphology

DON’T: Are explanations really necessary?

C. Finishes

One might think that this is a subsidiary to the first two criteria, but everyone knows the famous adage “The devil is in the details”. For the shirt, the devil is hiding everywhere. In the buttons which can be plastic or thick in pure mother-of-pearl, in the shape of the collar because you should know that there are dozens of them (Italian, French, English, cut-away, Claudine) in the technicality of the armhole, in the sharpness of the seams. Details that seem harmless but which will have a significant impact in the life of it and which also have an important role in terms of professional credibility.

DO : A superb pin collar which brings volume to the very well-groomed collar to come and play with the knot of the tie. A beautiful and subtle finish that speaks volumes

DON’T: Remember that the black shirt is illegal and unfit for consumption. Plastic buttons, a white stripe lining of very bad taste, a horrible buttonhole. Here is the kind of model to FLEE in all circumstances.

Formal Socks: Our Style Advice

Written by merkmakadmin on February 27, 2020. Posted in Blog. No Comments on Formal Socks: Our Style Advice

It may seem trivial to have to be careful with your socks when you dress in a suit and yet, and yet we quickly made a mistake. Especially at the hour or the length of the pants shrinks, one tolerates even fewer errors. EXIT the white sports sock or the thick mickey sock! Although the sock is an accessory that can express certain freedom of tone, a certain eccentricity (provided that it is well mastered) just like the tie. So we are going to give you some tips so that the fabric covering your foot does not denote.

A. Only Knee-Highs You Will Wear (Or High Socks)

Nobody wants to see our leg hairs (even for those gentlemen who shave them) when you are seated. Indeed, in this position, the pants will go up and reveal the bottom of your leg, which should never be naked. What to do in summer when it starts to get hot?

We opt for moccasins and thin skin-colored socks when the dress code allows otherwise we stay on summer knee-highs (we find beautiful technical fabrics based on linen/cotton/silk for the same price as those in oldest boy). Finally, be aware that knee-highs tend to wear out less quickly than socks. And for good reason, the knee-high rests on your calf, thus holding on to it without much effort, unlike the sock which alone fights against gravity.

DO: The pants go up along the leg when you are sitting, but the knee-highs allow you to perfectly cover the entire transition zone between the pants and the shoe.

A. Only Knee-Highs You Will Wear (Or High Socks)

DON’T: Here is a drawing that perfectly illustrates the lack of classic taste. A work that we borrow from the Sartorial Sketches and its brilliant founder Rosace which makes me laugh a lot!

B. Overly Colorful Socks You Will Not Wear

We can really have fun with the colors of a pair of socks: red, green, purple as long as the rendering is not too colorful. The idea is that everything is allowed except white and overly marked patterns (it does not pose a problem if we find more fused patterns like at Bresciani). But beware, choose a color that imposes only if the rest of your outfit is sober.

Conversely, if your tie and pocket handkerchief already have a character color then we will prefer a color of knee-high melted in the tone of the suit or shoe (so black, brown, gray or navy blue). Personally, I adore the ribbed models which allow two colors to be expressed with subtlety. Last little detail: we forget the same color combo tie/socks/pocket square. To favor it, one or two colors that you will decline in different tones or a simple touch of reminder. Because it lacks subtlety and it will give the impression that you are forcing your style.

DO: Here are our personal compositions (very colorful) to give you some ideas!

B. Overly Colorful Socks You Will Not Wear

DON’T: This is the famous not really subtle booster combo. In itself, it is not really a lack of taste but it will not do your honor. On the other hand with chinos (or another casual outfit) and a shirt of another color in summer, it matches!

C. The Quality You Will Not Neglect

Yes, a cheap pair is the insurance of a pitiful foot at the end of your day (especially if you have to walk a bit). It is better to invest a little at the beginning (they will last longer and therefore in terms of price we find it) and your feet will give it back to you. We are well aware that not everyone has the budget to devote to it. Don’t worry, we will offer you the first packs of 4 socks from € 10 in the section of our best sock addresses! Below this price there we advise against the purchase (unless you have beautiful addresses to share with us).

Are you looking for good addresses? That’s great here are our best addresses for socks (casual and formal)!

Do you have any doubts about how to wear well or choose another piece of men’s wardrobe? So take two minutes to see Merkmak collection of formal shoes, party shoes, casual shoes, casual sneakers, and slipper!

Formal Shoes: Our Style Advice

Written by merkmakadmin on February 27, 2020. Posted in Blog. No Comments on Formal Shoes: Our Style Advice

The Essential Things To Remember About Formal Shoes

“Shoes are the aristocracy of man” one day my stepfather told me. Over the years and mediocre pairs of shoes that I had to constantly renew because they always deteriorate quickly, I ended up understanding the meaning of this sentence by dint of experience. What my stepfather was trying to explain to me is that a beautiful pair of shoes is above all a solid pair with a qualitative leather that will improve with time and the care we give it with being careful.

At Jamais Vulgaire it is a little bit the idea that we also have it in addition to being very demanding in terms of value for money. We will therefore briefly present the two-three little things to observe when looking to get a nice pair of shoes!

A. The Material And The Patina

A pair of shoes intended for a professional framework will be made of leather and not just any. There are several parts of leather on a hide, and with regard to shoes, it is better to favor a full-grain calf leather reserved for shoes and small upscale and luxury leather goods (and for good reason, it is the most beautiful part of the hide).

Most serious brands get their supplies from the French tanneries of Annonay and Du Puy. There are many other quality tanneries, but these are renowned and well represented on the French market. As for the patina (the color of the leather), in a professional environment, we will favor a black color (especially in the circles of lawyers like Magic Circle where the formal dress code is ultra-strict) or dark brown (a color that will pass in 95% of cases).

DO: A beautiful plain brown patina perfect for businessNorwich 5140rs-14b-3-resize

The Essential Things To Remember About Formal Shoes

DON’T: A very interesting shade of patina with a nice glaze, but it is not really suitable for a professional.

B. The Form

There are three different shapes that dominate the formal shoe. The oxford, the derby and the monk (buckled shoe). All three have different aesthetic characteristics that will appeal to everyone, but the real interest is that they suit different feet! The oxford is suitable for fine feet while the derbies are much more comfortable for those who have a strong kick!

And for good reason the central seam is open, thus letting the piece of leather modulate to the shape of your kick while the seam of the oxford is closed. Finally, the monk does not have a lace-up and the loops allow you to adjust the central piece of leather as you wish. It is, therefore, suitable for all feet! We have created an explicit infographic on this subject which deals in more depth with the subject.

DO: A rounded shape and subtly worked at the end of the shoe gives this pair of the monk a sober and elegant.

DON’T: A pointed tip typical of cheap shoe models. We can choose Italian models less rounded than English but especially not this form there sharp-resize.

C. Finishes

The fitting of the shoe is very important. There are two schools that dominate the market, the English Goodyear sewn (2 stitch stitches, thick sole with long durability) and the Italian Blake assembly (thinner and less resistant but offers an aesthetic quite different from Goodyear).

Personally I was raised by the English school but I saw numbers of Blake mounting particularly successful especially on shoes dressed for ceremonies. One cut, topstitching, perforations. There are many finishes! Let’s say the one cut (one piece of leather) enhances the piece of leather and is suitable for nuanced patinas. On the contrary, a very dressed pair of perforations and topstitching will have a plain patina to come and calm it all down. There are even different shapes for the location of the lacing on the brogues!

DO: Very nice perforations on these grained leather derbies as well as subtle stitching all on a good year stitched sole that brings character. The whole becomes very dressed but completely portable and adapted to the formal register.

DON’T: A pair of oxfords with lacing on the side is certainly too eccentric, like the rest of the finishes. As for the sole, I am unable to define it, probably a poor imitation of the blake assembly.

The Formal Shoe Guide

If you liked this little introduction, know that we have written a more complete and precise guide on this subject. Once you have consulted it, you will become an enlightened amateur able to recognize a pair of bad manufacture visually and above all, you can now ask THE effective questions to the seller in case of doubts.

Breathable Casual Shoes
Rated 5.00 out of 5
from Original price was: $63.84.Current price is: $52.57.
Everyday Formal Shoes from Original price was: $57.27.Current price is: $46.94.
Derby Shoes from Original price was: $60.08.Current price is: $51.63.
Oxford Shoes $39.43
Oxford Shoes from Original price was: $113.61.Current price is: $81.68.